Peru travel with Intrepid

In June 2019, we embarked on a trip that left a lasting impression. Below, you'll find some tips from our journey, as well as a complete YouTube video documenting our adventure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SVCyNGC9iw

Lima

Our adventure began in Lima after a direct flight from London Heathrow. We had a few days in Lima before our tour began where we visited Miraflores neighbourhood on the coast including Lovers Park and the Pier, did a city centre tour and visited Huaca Pucllana. On our third day in Lima our tour began, we did the Peru Encompassed Trip with Intrepid in June 2019 and were very lucky as we were the only people booked onto the trip.

Our first day of the tour involved a trip to the city centre to visit the 16th-century monastery of San Francisco with its catacombs of some 10,000 remains. We then boarded a local bus (which were more luscious than we expected!) for a 4 hour journey to Paracas. On arrival we checked into the hotel and visited a local restaurant for some local cuisine and of course a Pisco sour.

Pisco and Paracas

It was an early start the following day to get a boat out to visit the Ballestas islands in Paracas National Reserve. We were lucky enough to see pelicans, seal and lots of penguins on the 2-hour boat tour. 

After this we hopped on a private bus to a wine vineyard to lunch before heading onto the town of Huacachina. This little settlement sits beside a small lake with truly dramatic sand dunes. We went in an all terrian vehicle racing up and down the dunes then went sandboarding and got some great photo opportunities.

Next it was onto Nazca where we had a short stop to climb the Nazca lines viewing platform. Before heading into Nazca and finding some food and our hotel for the night – which had a pool put it was very cold this time of year!

Nazca lines

Our first activity this morning was exploring the eerie desert graveyard of Chauchilla, where the arid conditions have naturally interred the remains of the Nazca people buried here. This was quite a spooky place to visit, made more eerie by it being a foggy start to the morning.

Next we opted for the flight over the Nazca lines for the best view of the drawings in the sand. This was delayed because of the foggy start to just after lunch which wasn’t ideal for our stomaches! But the views and the experience of flying in a small (8 person) plane was well worth it.

After our excitement of the day it was time to board another luxury public bus for a 9 hour journey to Arequipa, arriving late at night.

Arequipa

Arrive late into Arequipa we got same rest before enjoying some breakfast and you venture out for the day. Our day starting with an orientation walk with our guide to get our bearings and see the spectacular views of the mountains. I’m going to say this now, Arequipa was our favourite city on the trip. Not sure if it was the mountain views of the white and colourful buildings but it is a special place.

Standing at the foot of El Misti Volcano and oozing the best of Spanish colonial charm, Arequipa vies with Cusco for the title of Peru’s most attractive city. Built out of a pale volcanic rock called sillar, the old buildings dazzle in the sun, giving the city its nickname – the ‘White City’. The main plaza, with its cafes and nearby cathedral, is a lovely place to while away the day.

After our tour and getting some street food ice cream we visited the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, a 16th century monastery which only accepted women from well-to-do Spanish families. These nuns grew infamous for their luxurious lifestyles, each one having her own servant, splurging on fine products and enjoying frequent parties. A really pretty place with lots to learn about what went on there.

Next we enjoyed some lunch just off the main plaza before visiting the lovely cathedral including climbing up to the roof to view the mountains and see the bells.

To round off our trip in Arequipa we visited the Andean Sanctuaries Museum in Arequipa, which houses Peru’s famous ‘Ice Maiden’, the Inca mummy of a girl who died in the 1440s. It was very interesting to find out how they found the mummy, presented in a good film.

Colca Canyon

Today was another travel day, about 5 hours by minivan to the town of Chivay. Along the way there were lots of stops, we saw llamas, alpacas and vicunas and stopped to get close to a herd. We also stopped for photo opportunities of the mountains and to try some local coca tea. The third stop was at the highest point on the tour at Patapama (4800 metres above sea level) which is just before the destination of Chivay.

On arrival we checked in to the hotel and then went to the local hot springs and spent the evening soaking in the baths. After returning to the town we visited a nearby restaurant complete with live Andean music and dancing at a pena (local bar).

The next day was an earlier start to visit the Colca Canyon, more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, the Colca has some breathtaking views. On the drive into the canyon we saw terraced crops that have been cultivated since pre-Inca times by local villages. And then the reason for our pre sunrise start was to see the Andean condor. One of the world’s largest flying birds soared above and below us from a prime viewing point above the canyon. This was an incredible experience there was so many condors of different sizes and we got some great photos.

After visited the canyon we heading to our first homestay experience on a farm. The room was basic and right next to the cow but we helped the family gather hay to feed the cows by hand, enjoyed a meal with the family and played games with the little girl, before heading to bed under lots of blankets.

Puno

The next day was another travel day, back up over the mountains but this time to Puno. We experience the dramatic views of Peru’s highlands – the Altiplano – made the long drive an exceptionally scenic one. Puno is located on the shores of Lake Titicaca,. Upon arrival, we wondered the streets to get acquainted with the town before finding a restaurant for dinner and getting an early night. Puno is known as Peru’s folklore capital, this is due in no small part to its thriving indigenous cultures, including the Aymara and Quechua.

Lake Titicaca

The day started with a motorboat tour of Lake Titicaca. Sitting 3820 metres above sea level, it holds the title of highest navigable lake in the world. We learnt about the spiritual significance the lake holds for the Quechua while we cruised across its waters. We stopped off at Uros Titinos, floating man-made islands made entirely from reeds and home to several families.

Later, we headed to the second homestay located in the Lake Titicaca region. We helped the families to harvest different coloured corn and then there was a friendly game of volleyball – locals against tourists!

The homestay was in a mud brick house. The accommodation was very basic, but the experience rewarding, nonetheless. Be prepared to use shared drop toilets and have no access to a shower for the night. There were plenty of blankets to keep you warm.

After breakfast, it was back on the boat for a 1-hour ride to Taquile Island. The locals here make their livelihood out of textiles, with the women doing the spinning and men doing the knitting. We browsed the handmade goods including warm, high quality items. Note you can get a special Lake Titicaca passport stamp here. Then took an uphill trek for about an hour to visit the main area of the island. After lunch with a spectacular view over the lake, the boat took us back to Puno (about 3 hours).

Cusco

The next day was another travel day on a luxury public bus, we took a scenic bus ride across the Altiplano towards Cusco (approximately 7 hours) arriving mid afternoon. Cusco is the continent’s oldest continuously inhabited city and here, colonial buildings are built upon foundations remaining from Inca times.

We spend a little time acclimatising to the high altitude (3450 metres), then set out to discover some of Cusco’s lesser-known sights on a guided walking tour with our guide. Walking past the facade of Qoricancha temple, San Pedro market, the main square, 12 Angled Stone, Regocijo Square and San Blas Square. Ending the walking tour at Cusco’s Chocolate museum where we sampled a dissolute cup of hot chocolate made from local cacao beans.

Our next day was a free day in Cusco, the heart and soul of Peru. There is lots to do here so it was hard to choose what to do but we decided on Via Ferrata & Zipline in the Sacred Valley which was epic! You climb up the side of the valley on Via Ferrata past the cool pods you can stay the night in and then you biplane down on 13 different lines. We’d highly recommend doing this if you have the time.

We then headed back to Cusco for dinner and to prepare for hiking the Inca Trail over the next few days.

Inca Trail

The day began early travelling by minivan to the 82 kilometre marker and meet your crew of local porters, cook and guide. We stopped off at a village before we got there for breakfast. Then the 45 kilometres hike began!

The first day included uphill trekking to the campsite, which is at 3100m above sea level. On the way we saw the Inca sites of Ollantaytambo, Huillca Raccay and Llactapata, as well as incredible views of snow-capped Veronica Peak. In the evening, we unwinded and reflected on the first day hike at the campsite with a nourishing meal prepared by our cook.

Day 2 – This was the most challenging day of the trek as you ascend a long steep path to reach the highest point of the trail. Colloquially known as ‘Dead Woman’s Pass’, Warmiwanusca sits at a height of 4200 metres above sea level, providing amazing views of the valley below. We then descend to the campsite in the Pacaymayo Valley at 3650 metres.

The third day was the longest it started with a climb through the Pacaymayo Valley to Runkuracay Pass (3980 metres). With views of the snow-capped mountain of Cordillera Vilcabamba before we descended for around 2 to 3 hours to the ruins of Sayacmarca. Continue over the trail’s third pass to the ruins of Phuyupatamarca (3850 metres), also known as ‘Town Above the Clouds’. There was then a 2 hour descent down the Inca steps to the final night’s campsite by the Winay Wayna archaeological site.

The final day was the most spectacular leg of the trek to Machu Picchu. The day started before dawn with breakfast at 4 am. We said farewell to the porters as they descend to the train station and then began hiking by 4.30 am. Once the final checkpoint opened at 5 am, the final leg of the trek began. The walk to Intipunku (the Sun Gate) takes around 2.5 hours, although we ending up almost jogging to get race the sun rising. We were so lucky with the weather and enjoyed unforgettable views over the ‘Lost City of the Incas’ as you enter Machu Picchu through the Sun Gate. I still get a funny feeling thinking about it now. Remember you can get another passport stamp here.

Because we arrived so early in Machu Picchu it was quiet so we were able to get amazing views, photos on our tour. There is so much to see here but after an early start we’d explored it all by a late lunch time so headed down to the village for lunch and to explore the markets before catching the train back to Cusco.

Cusco

Returning to Cusco it was another free day but not a rest day for us. We were off to hike Rainbow Mountain. We opted to do a shorter hike from a local village instead of where the coaches go. There’s also chance to get a passport stamp here. This place had been exploited quite a lots when we visited. The mountains around here are really pretty but unfortunately as the tourism had grown so quickly (due to the snow melting and the rainbow becoming visible) the infrastructure wasn’t yet it place. This may have changed by now. I’d still say it’s worth going but bare this in mind.

Amazon Jungle

This morning we took a flight to the frontier town of Puerto Maldonado in the Amazon Jungle, where we stayed for two nights.

Upon arrival, lodge staff took us to their office in town where we packed a small duffle bag with clothing and other items needed for two days in the jungle, and stowed the rest of our luggage and then travelled by private vehicle to the water. Here, we boarded a motorised canoe and cruised deep into the jungle.

The journey to our eco-lodge in the Madre de Dios region took around 3 hours, and we got a packed lunch on the way. We arrived and settled in to our thatched-roof lodge before a short orientation night walk of the immediate area and a briefing from our jungle tour guide. We spend the evening getting acquainted with the sights and smells of the jungle and fall asleep to the sounds of nature.  

The next day we did an 11-kilometre jungle walk while you are here. It was quite muddy but we were given boots for this. On the hike we also went in a canoe on a lake to see more magnificent fauna and flora in their natural habitat. On our return walk, we saw lots of monkeys pass through the trees above us.

The final day in the jungle was a travel day in the reverse of our arrival day. Note that on the motorised canoe you get the chance to see wildlife too, we managed to see lots of parrots. Leaving behind the natural wonders of the Amazon and we returned to Puerto Maldonado where a short 2-hour flight took us back to Lima.

Lima

Returning to Lima we visited a local restaurant for dinner. We then had a short day exploring the Barranco neighbourhood of Lima and getting some last minute souvenirs before our flight back home that evening.

Until next time, happy travelling!

Katherine x